Prusa Mk3S MMU2 E3d V6 Hot-end Nozzle Changing Procedure
- Unload Filament if necessary.
Move Z Axis Up
- Settings -> Move axis -> Move Z -> [about 190].
Remove Silicone Sock
- Remove any Silicone Sock. This may be hot and can burn you!
Preheat Nozzle to 285C
- Settings -> Temperature -> Nozzle: 285 C.
- Do not touch Block or Nozzle! These are very hot and will burn you!
- When the nozzle temperature is 285 C.
- Hold the heater Block steady with a 16 mm spanner, or wrench.
- Do not let the spanner touch the heater, thermistor, or wires. Avoid damaging them.
- Do not allow the Block to move (best), or only twist the Block a very small amount.
- If you allow the Block to move (twist) then the Block may creep on the heat break thread. The filament may leak when you print.
- Use a 7 mm socket with extension to remove the Nozzle using only hand force.
- Clean Nozzles during and after changing!
- The interface between the Nozzle and the heat break must be flat and clean! While the nozzle is still hot use a wire brush to clean nozzle thread and heat break interface.
- Check and if necessary clean the new nozzle.
- The interface between the Nozzle and the heat break must be flat and clean! If necessary lightly file or fine grit-paper the interface clean and flat.
- Insert and tighten the new Nozzle full finger tight using the socket and extension.
- Do not use a socket wrench, or driver; do not over-tighten the Nozzle!
- After tightening the Nozzle: check that there is still space between the top of the Nozzle and the bottom of the heater Block.
Lower Nozzle Temperature
- Set the Nozzle Temperature lower as required.
Check and Set Live-Z
- Settings -> Live adjust Z ->
Check and Set Nozzle Size in Hardware Settings
- Settings -> HW Setup -> Nozzle d.
Replace silicone sock
- Replace any Silicone Sock: take care to not damage the heater or thermistor wires.
- Do not touch the Block or Nozzle! These are likely still very hot and will burn you.
- Load Filament as necessary.
- 16 mm Spanner or Wrench.
- 7 mm Socket.
- Socket extension (approx. 70 mm). The socket will get hot and the extension helps you to avoid burning yourself.
- Stop printing!!
- Do not allow the leak to build up burnt plastic residue!
- Check that you fitted the nozzle correctly. There must be a (small) gap between the top of the Nozzle and the bottom of the Block.
- If the nozzle is flush against the bottom of the block, then you could disassemble and rebuild the hot-end to stop the leak.
- Use 1/2 turn for nozzle gap from the block when tightening against the heat break; not 1/4 turn. This is based on my experience and may be different from E3d advice.
Disassemble Hot End
- Disconnect the heater and thermistor wires from the board and wiring loom before removing the hot end. I try and leave some slack in the wiring loom to avoid doing this.
- Do not bend or put strain on the wires from the heater block!
- Remove, clean, reassemble, and refit the hot end. See online advice for how to do this.
- Re-calibrate the printer before printing again.
E3d V6 Nozzle Series - Marks for Nozzle Size
- 0.15 mm: 2 on 1 face.
- 0.25 mm: 0.
- 0.30mm: 1.
- 0.35 mm: 2.
- 0.40 mm: 3.
- 0.50 mm: 6.
- 0.60 mm: 4.
- 0.80 mm: 5.